This
is not simply a building, nor a market nor even a district
that we find facing us now, but a city, a separate urban
area with its own alleys and, throughfares and streets,
a labyrinth of shops and passages in complicated interdependence,
always fascinating to explore.
Admittedly it is a city without outstanding monuments,
but this Grand Bazaar, the largest oriental bazaar in
the world, would be sufficient object in itself for a
visit to our Metropolis. It is the most colourful of places,
its windows teaming with gold and diamonds; warm in the
winter, fresh the hot months, combed with dim and little-known
alleyways abutting almost unnoticed on to avenues crowded
with passers-by.
It was constructed in 1461 under Mehmet The Conqueror
for the party known as 'Bedestan'. Suleyman the Magnificent,
Mehmet IV and Mustafa II successively either extended
its area or enlarged it (1651-1701), as a result of earthquakes
or fires or other events necessitating repairs. In the
great earthquake of 1896 the Grand Bazaar was severly
damaged and extensive restorations were necessary; in
1954 it was partly destroyed by fire and had once more
to be put in order. These successive restorations, and
the fluctuations in social and economic life have been
reflected in the Grand Bazaar. The walls of the arcades,
the cupolas, which gave each shop numerous satellites,
have keen changed or pulled down, or modernised with glass
window fronts illuminated with neon lighting, breaking
the antique atmosphere of this immense covered market...
But we are powerless in the face of progress, and in spite
of this new look the Grand Bazaar continues to offer to
its customers many fine and rare curiosities.
It is not our intention to attempt to guide you in detail
through the maze of streets and alleys of the Grand Bazaar,
the task would be too difficult. But for guidance let
us point out that if you enter by the Nur-u-Osmaniye gate
the avenue before you leads directly to Beyazit Square.
If we pass by the Nur-u-Osmaniye we must take the first
street on the right to reach the jewelers section of the
Bazaar. Here the public is offered articles of jewelry
in gold, silver platinum, cut diamond, and other gems
and precious stones. It is a centre of the diamond trade.
In one place you will see a shop in the form of a small
kiosk, formerly the counter of a dairy; a little spiral
staircase leads you to the upper floor of this minute
building and we recommend you to take a look from here
at the market spreading immediately below you-it is a
limited view, but not without interest...To the left of
this little kiosk there is a door with glass wings on
either side; descending the two steps you arrive at the
antiquities section of Bedestan; on sale here are objects
in copper and bronze, every sort of souvenir to tempt
the visitor; it is a field of exploration, criss-crossed
like a chequer-board, in which the lanes meet end intersect
endlessly. Stoves, braziers, weapons, armour, ikons, carpets,
embroideries, rings, ancient coins, porcelain vases, objects
fashioned in silver, all kinds of treasures are to be
found here. Here and there above us hang lamps and old
lanterns in many colours, whose pale rose and turquoise
are reflected from behind their globes, old-fashioned
now, out so familiar for the light they used to shed..
All the same, here are some points regarding the Grand
Bazaar which might be agreable for you to know: In 1880,
according to an inventory taken at the time the area of
the Grand Bazaar included 2 Bedesten, 4399 shops, 2195
living rooms, 1 Hamam, 1 mosque, 12 strongrooms for keeping
objects of value, 10 houses of prayer, 2 fountains, 1
fountain reservoir, 16 drinking-water posts, 8 wells for
the use of fire-pumps, 24 hans, 1 school.
The trades carried on under this huge vaulted city were
numerous and varied-you can imagine how many there must
have been; some have disappeared, others still survive,
dispersed according to the nature of their work in streets
bearing the trade-names. The Kavoukjis (workers in headdress),
merchants of fezzes and turbans, tailors, handkerchief
vendors, furriers, tanners, traders in skins, knife sellers,
seamsters, makers of sashes and belts and bags, drapers,
retailers of matching materials, specialists in hand painting
on cloth, mattness-makers, shoe-makers, polishers, makers
of looking-glasses, gilders, paper-makers, makers of jewel-boxes
and fashioners of pearls, embroiderers, traders of rosaries,
money-changers, jewelers, weavers of rush mats, armchair-makers
and tent-makers, engravers, sculptors, etc. etc.